Choosing your first pair of climbing shoes is crucial for comfort and performance on the rock, but it can also be overwhelming. Whether you’re gearing up for indoor sessions or planning your first outdoor adventure, factors like fit, type of climbing, and comfort will influence your decision. We’re taking the guesswork out of it, with 10 useful tips to help you choose your first pair of climbing shoes in no time.

A Quick Intro To Climbing Shoes

Climbing shoes are completely different to any other type of shoe in terms of fit and construction, so it’s important to get some basic knowledge in check before you start browsing.

Types of Climbing Shoes

There are three main types of climbing shoes, each suited to different types of climbing and skill levels.

Neutral: Best for beginners, providing comfort and versatility.

Moderate: Slightly downturned, good for technical climbing.

Aggressive: Highly downturned, suitable for advanced climbers on steep, overhanging routes.

Climbing Shoe Materials

Climbing shoe uppers are usually made with either leather or synthetic. The main difference between the two is that leather shoes will stretch over time, anything from a half to a full size. Synthetic shoes usually retain their shape, but they will soften up slightly with use.

It’s also useful to consider the outsole, which is the rubber part of the shoe that touches the rock. Generally, if you’re just starting out, you’ll want to select a shoe with more rubber contact points. As a beginner, improper technique will cause more wear and tear, so more contact points provide some added durability.

Closure Systems

The closure system of a climbing shoe can actually alter the performance and versatility, and each option is best for a different type of climb.

Lace-up: Offers the most adjustable fit and can be loosened when your feet get too hot, or tightened for more difficult climbs.

Velcro/Strap: Convenient for quick on and off, they’re great for bouldering and indoor climbing.

Slipper: With no adjustments, they’re easy to slip on and off and a soft sole means your feet will get stronger over time. Slippers are better for training rather than performance as they don’t wrap very tightly around your feet.

Girl climbing a rock in the blue mountains

1. Prioritise Comfort Over Performance

With your first pair of climbing shoes, the most important thing is to prioritise comfort. Performance shoes can be tighter and more aggressive, which might be uncomfortable for beginners. Look for shoes that fit snugly but don’t cause pain

2. Choose Your Fit Wisely

Climbing shoes should fit more snugly than regular shoes, but they shouldn’t be painful. Your toes should be touching the end of the shoe in a comfortably curved position. Toes should never lie completely flat because curled toes allow us to support our body weight on a small surface area or edge. In addition, there shouldn’t be any dead space at the front of the shoe – this can lead shoes to slip off since body weight will be balanced away from the front of the shoe. The heel should also have a snug fit, but when standing on your toes it shouldn’t pinch your Achilles tendon.

3. Assess Your Foot Shape

It’s important to consider your own foot shape when you’re browsing climbing shoes. Since the goal is to have your toes evenly curled, you’ll want to pick a toebox shape that compliments the shape of your toes. The two main toebox shapes in climbing shoes are rounded, where the front of the shoe gradually curves, and pointed, where the front of the shoe curves more to a point. As a general rule, if you have slanted toes (big toe longer than the others), a pointed toe box is the most suitable option. If you have triangle, rhombus, or square toes, then a rounded toe box would be the best option to give your other toes space to breathe.

4. Consider the Climbing Type

Think about where you’ll be climbing most. Different shoes are better for different activities and environments. Will you be in a gym to start with or out at the crag straight away? Will you be bouldering, sport or trad climbing? Where you plan to climb should influence your choice of shoe.

5. Ask for Advice

Talk to more experienced climbers, whether that be at a gym, local club or climbing store. They can provide valuable insights based on your climbing goals and preferences. If you’re looking for someone to have a chat about climbing shoes with, pop in to your local Paddy’s store. One of our knowledgeable climbing enthusiasts would be more than happy to listen to your needs and point you in the right direction.

Two climbers putting on climbing shoes

6. Try Before You Buy

For your first pair of climbing shoes, we’d recommend trying a bunch of options in a store first. Each brand and shoe fits differently, so try out different brands, sizes, and styles and take a walk around in them. Pop along to your local Paddy’s store to browse and try a range of different climbing shoe options.

7. Shop In the Afternoon

Your feet can swell up to a full size during the day. It can be a good idea to try climbing shoes on in the afternoon, after you’ve done some form of physical activity like a walk or a run. That way, your feet are likely to be the same size as they would be after a couple of hours at the crag.

8. Disregard the Size

This may sound counterintuitive, but don’t pay too much attention to the size of the shoe, and instead focus on the fit. There is no standard sizing for climbing shoes, and every pair of shoes (and feet!) are different. Don’t be surprised if you end up walking away with a climbing shoe that is a size bigger than your regular shoe size.

9. Price Does Not Equal Durability

Contrary to most other sports, just because a shoe is more expensive, it doesn’t mean it is necessarily more durable. Each climbing shoe is designed to serve a different purpose. A beginner-friendly and harder rubber shoe can last anywhere between 6 to 12 months, and is often cheaper than a softer soled more advanced shoe that will likely last up to 6 months.

10. Remember the Break-In Period

Remember that new climbing shoes often require a break-in period (especially if they’re leather), so don’t be discouraged if they feel a bit stiff at first. If you’re finding leather shoes particularly difficult to break in, wear them in a hot shower to help loosen them off. This will help expedite the break in period and soften up the leather.

Group of friends bouldering

The Best Climbing Shoes for Beginners

Ultimately, choosing a climbing shoe as a beginner is an individual pursuit. From foot shape, to comfort preference, to the type of climbing you’ll be doing – there’s a multitude of factors that can influence your decision. Ideally, with your first shoe, you’ll want to opt for something that’s comfortable, with a durable and grippy rubber sole, that’s easy to get on and off your feet.

The Scarpa Origin is a great neutral entry-level shoe for beginner climbers. They feature a velcro fastening for easy on and off wherever you’re climbing, and a grippy rubber sole with plenty of contact points to help progress your technique. They’re also made with a plush leather upper that moulds to your foot for superior comfort on the rock. Overall, the Origin provides a great introduction to the world of climbing shoes.

Want to browse? Check out our full range of climbing gear online and in store.

About The Author

admin

Some 80 years ago, a young bushwalker's dissatisfaction with the limited and heavy bushwalking equipment available prompted him to design and make his own. Before long, word spread, and Paddy Pallin's lightweight, functional designs were soon in demand among fellow bushwalkers. From its early days the company has concentrated on supplying bushwalkers, travellers and adventurers with the highest quality and most advanced products and knowledge. Since 1930 the company has grown to become Australia's leading supplier of specialist outdoor and travel gear. The company, still owned by the Pallin family, now has thirteen stores throughout Australia as well as online, mail order and corporate sales divisions. We are using our vast wealth of knowledge, and experience, to build an online community where we can share our stories, reviews and tech tips to help you research and plan your next adventure.

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